Black & White portrait by subcomandanta via Flickr

I am writing this piece to make a small contribution to the promotion of Cambodia as a tourist destination. Tourism is one of the country’s few foreign exchange earners and so will play a key role in alleviating the country’s economic woes.

The Phnom Penh Post reports that figures for the first half of 2009 show an overall decline in the number of foreign visitors, with South Korea down by as much as one third. Needless to say there have been job losses.

I realise that talk of poverty, prostitution and human trafficking is not what you would normally associate with tourism promotion, but I have always believed in telling it like it is. For the most part, as a tourist, you would not be aware of these problems but crucially, if you were to visit the country, you could be part of the solution, particularly if using companies that follow responsible tourism principles.

Cambodian Government Aims High

Despite the negative indicators, according to the Straits Times, the government is predicting that next year annual arrivals will increase to 3 million: that’s up from 2.15 million in 2008, a projected increase of 39% over 2 years.

This is perhaps an ambitious figure in today’s climate but, if it is a realistic target, I am all for aiming high. I read that, amidst the gloom, arrivals from Vietnam at least increased by 40% in the first half of this year (2009): it’s a start.

Cambodia Angkor Air Launched This Week

Airport sign by aZAMirui via Flickr

The government hopes that the country’s new national airline, Cambodia Angkor Air, launched this week, will add to the momentum. This is a joint venture between Cambodia (51%) and Vietnam Airlines (49%) and the first flights connect Phnom Penh (Cambodia’s capital), Siem Reap (the gateway to Cambodia’s famed Angkor temples) with Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam. A service between Siem Reap and the Cambodian beach resort of Sihanoukville will follow. The collaboration operates as a code share, which in practical terms means flight numbers are prefixed by one or both of the airlines’ 2-character designator codes (K6 and VN); and gives the fledgling airline connections to Vietnam Airlines’ international routes.

Cambodia: The Perfect Tourist Package – City, Culture And Beach

Phnom Penh rooftops by Anduze traveller via Flickr

Cambodia, via its two international gateways, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, is already well served by direct flights from regional hubs like Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore; but these new services by the national carrier both increase air capacity and give the country a degree of autonomy.

Sihanoukville beach

CC photo: John Einar Sandvand, Cambodia Tales

Once the airport at Sihanoukville has officially opened (at the time of writing I do not have a date but I understand it’ll be soon) all of this will combine to give Cambodia the perfect tourist package: city, culture and beach, all accessible by air. The existing accommodation inventory also offers a wide choice of places to stay: from guest houses right the way up, in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh at least, to 5 star luxury.

Cambodia then has the start of a sound tourist infrastructure.

The Two Jewels In Cambodia’s Tourism Crown

Angkor Wat by mtchm via Flickr

Whether or not tourist arrivals hit 3 million next year, by continuing to cater for a wider range of visitors, the industry can attract a higher spend and that is what is needed. For me quality is more important than quantity (but then I’m not running the country!) and I believe it important that all tourist developments should be responsible ones.

The Family at Ta Prohm

Finally I would just briefly mention the two jewels in the country’s tourism crown: 1) The World Heritage site of Angkor and 2) The people.

I will be writing about the temples of Angkor elsewhere but for now let me say that the temple complex, close to Siem Reap, is one of the most awesome sites I have seen in 25 years of travelling in Asia.

Smiling face by mrcharly via Flickr

The people, in my experience, are gentle and charming and for the fortitude shown over decades of war, genocide and instability, they have my respect and admiration. Since 1997 their focus has been firmly on the future and I am sure you, as a visitor, would receive a gracious, warm welcome.

I realise discretionary income is tight at the moment but if you are undecided about where to spend your next vacation let me recommend Cambodia : this pocket-size country has a lot to offer. A word of warning though: after visiting once you will want to go back, and as the country continues to develop there will be plenty to go back for!

If you know Cambodia and would like to give more reasons why someone should consider it for their vacation please comment below.

If you do not know the country and have a question about it, post a comment too: I am sure someone will be able to help

The Waterfront, Phnom Penh

First Impressions

You start to get a flavour of Cambodia’s place in the world as soon as you arrive. Upon landing into the tiny airport, you are greeted with a gorgeous terminal – a cute present from a French-Malaysian joint venture. But inside you’ll have to go through a number of stations to have your visa processed – an outfit that looks quite comical, as a line of officers sits behind a counter, each doing a particular task in the process.

Once you’ve left the secure area of the building, you’ll immediately be faced with numerous offers for taxis, lodging, gifts and souvenirs – a sight not uncommon in many poor countries and another good reason to have transport pre-booked. Travel in the streets of Phnom Penh is not for the faint hearted; a kluge of tuk-tuks, motorcycles, and vintage cars competes for attention and the dotted line in the middle of the road is really only a visual reference, not a “keep to your side of the road” marker that you might be used to.

The cacophony of horns dies down finally when you arrive at your hotel which will no doubt be of world-class quality and standard, regardless of your budget. Tourism is an important mix to the Cambodian economy, so service is always swift and efficient, friendly. Our hotel room had definitely a bit of French flair – perhaps a leftover from all the years of French influence.

The Waterfront

Alongside the river in central Phnom Penh is where all the action is. From one end to the other there are posh restaurants, fan-cooled outdoor bars, and the occasional souvenir shop or stall. Expats, both local and tourist, tend to flock to the Foreign Correspondent’s Club for good drinks, tasty food, and wonderful views from the top storey of the building. But don’t just hang out here – any of the many restaurants have amazing food – Khmer curry, pad Thai, or even the odd French dish.

But heading just a block away into town, it’s a very different story. There are few streetlights, making the pathways somewhat dark as dusk approaches. It feels extremely dangerous yet welcoming and safe both at the same time – we had no problems, but you can’t help but feel a bit spooked. Children run about naked, either because of a lack of clean clothes or because of the heat. Flies cover the meat sitting outdoors at the markets revolts a Westerner but the locals don’t skip a beat.

We looked for a secret nightclub, one supposedly with the best music and drinks in town. Our guide warned us that the club is frequented by family members of the Khmer Rouge who like to cause trouble, unprovoked, especially with foreigners. Our curiosity got the best of us, but alas we couldn’t find it. Clear addresses are not a feature in Phnom Penh.

The Markets

A tour in any of the markets in Phnom Penh (particularly the Central Market and the Russian Market) will make even the shiniest mall in Hong Kong or America seem lacklustre. The stalls and stands spiral out for miles and miles, and even after a couple of hours exploring, it is impossible to see everything. But you might not want to – the incessant calls of “lady” and “sir” to any Westerner who walks by will leave you flummoxed as whether to remark on their entrepreneurial spirit or just be annoyed.

A Market Scene, Phnom Penh

The wares on sale will astound you, but wait until you see the prices – naturally you have to ask as they aren’t marked. A counterfeit t-shirt will run you 1 pound, but oddly enough you’ll be expected to bargain and to do your job properly would get it down to 50 or 60 pence, at least. Your instinct will be to just pay as it is so cheap, but don’t overlook this local custom. Many of the shopkeepers love a bit of cheeky banter, and what better way than to haggle over prices? Even if you let them “win” they’ll still be pleased you tried, and you’ll have the opportunity to get to know a local more.

If You Go

If you go to Cambodia, don’t head straight to Siem Reap – skip Phnom Penh and you’ll regret it. There are directly flights currently from Bangkok, Saigon, Hanoi, and Hong Kong. You can also get the country’s only internal direct flight from Phhom Penh to Siem Reap and save travel time if necessary.

Come to Cambodia with an open mind, get to know the locals, and listen to their story. It’s a tale you’ll never forget.

Words & images by Andy Hayes

Andy is a professional travel writer and photographer based in Edinburgh, Scotland. For more inspirational travel stories and tales from around the world, visit his site Sharing Experiences.