That is not to say that Bali is perfect: far from it. Most of the population seem to be squished into the eastern side of the island especially around the southern corner, and the traffic can be horrendous. And personally I dislike the way Kuta Beach has become the type of mass-market, over-developed resort area you can find anywhere.

The island’s ills were succinctly summarised by Dr. Anak Agung Gde Agung, a former Minister of Societal Affairs, writing in The Jakarta Post and quoted in this week’s Bali Update “Bali at the crossroads”.

“The erosion of Bali’s, tradition, culture and natural environment as a result of massive efforts to boost tourist numbers has occurred in a number of ways. The most visible is the overload in infrastructure and overuse of precious natural resources. Roads have become cramped with cars at all hours of night and day, while farmlands have disappeared at a rate of around 1000 hectares per year to make way for hotels, villas and malls.

All of Bali’s 37 beaches and eight rivers have undergone serious transformations from their original states through development activities that have illegally violated building codes. Water levels at various points are so low they risk drying up altogether, inviting sea water to seep in. This problem and many more like it were foregone conclusions when the number of hotel rooms, set by French tourist company Sceto at a maximum 22.000 for Bali, exceeded the 70.000 mark…..

The more fatal effect of this overload of tourists lies in the impact it has culturally. As farmlands are converted into tourist infrastructure, alienation not only occurs with the land but also to the temples, rituals, ceremonies and communal life – the essential lifestyle of the people who used to live on that land. The Balinese way of life, culture and tradition has been displaced in the blink of an eye.”

Fortunately there have been signs recently that the local administration recognises the need to preserve the island’s cultural heritage and Dr Agung sets out a way forward:

“First, it [the Administration] should aim to preserve and enhance the special cultures, traditions and natural environment of Bali through multifaceted defensive and motivational policies.

Next, it should bring in the right type of tourists who can appreciate the culture and natural environment of the island……This will prevent Bali from becoming everything for everybody and eventually nothing for nobody.

Finally, Bali’s key philosophy on life, the Tri Hita Karana, should be strengthened. The premise of the philosophy teaches that man in his every action should always heed his impact on the three main surroundings – his fellow being, his natural environment and his god or morality. In meeting his needs, man should balance them in such a way that the needs of those around him are not impaired.”

For me that is another way of saying responsible or sustainable tourism and I agree wholeheartedly with this strategy. I cannot see how Bali can do anything else if it is to ensure its survival as a sought-after tourist destination and even perhaps, ultimately, as an entity.

In my opinion Bali is far from being a lost cause and still has many wonderful aspects but now is surely the time for the island to make its mark as a beacon for sustainable tourism.

An existing example of sustainable tourism in Bali can be found on the Bali Discovery web site Bali Eco Adventure: Sustainable Tourism in Bali’s Highlands. Bali Eco Adventure have established a model of sustainable tourism “which seeks to minimize any negative impacts on the environment and local community, rewarding the endemic population for their careful stewardship of nature and cultural traditions.”

Bali is such a magical place I think here is huge scope for doing more along these lines. What do you think? Is Bali a lost cause, a cause worth fighting for or fine as it is?

As I mentioned in The Haze Threat Returns To South East Asia last month the problem is mostly caused by the slash-and-burn preparation of land in Sumatra and Kalimantan. At least it is good to read that Indonesia is cooperating with Malaysia and Brunei Darussalam to protect Kalimantan (Borneo) through their ‘Heart of Borneo (HOB)‘ programme.

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According to The Straits Times, in a televised address to the nation over the weekend, Indonesian President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono said: ‘Those who carried out this attack and those who planned it will be arrested and tried according to the law.’ Calling the twin bombings an ‘act of terrorism’, Mr Yudhoyono said the attackers ‘have no humanity and they don’t care about the damage done to our country with this act of terrorism which will have wide effects on our economy, trade, tourism and image in the eyes of the world.’

No matter where we live nor where we travel to it is a sad fact that in today’s world a terrorist attack is possible at any time. It is a horrible thought but for our own sanity it is one we cannot dwell upon.

I choose to travel with optimism and a belief that all people are fundamentally good. That is the world I wish to live in and I am sure there are millions of others who think the same.

In my opinion, thanks to a determination by many of us to continue travelling and thanks too to a diverse yet broadly united population, the Indonesian tourism industry can and will survive.

For now though my thoughts are with those who suffered in this recent atrocity and my heart goes out to their friends and families. I hope they soon find a kind of peace.

Image: TeeJe via Flickr