It continues to be a dreadful time in much of South East Asia as people count the cost of the storms that have ripped through the region. As I write, the death toll, arising from Tropical Storm Ketsana, in Laos is reportedly 24: in the Philippines it is 293, in Vietnam at least 107 have died, and in Cambodia the storm has claimed 17 lives.

The biggest catastrophe has been in Sumatra, Indonesia, where earthquakes have claimed the lives of over 1000 with thousands more believed missing.

I have allowed myself to feel overwhelmed by such numbers and as a result have been gripped by inertia. From the inertia has come frustration.

Fortunately a friend reminded me of a story about a starfish. For those unfamiliar with the story, it goes like this:

A Buddhist monk was on the beach with his apprentice the day after a fierce storm. Thousands of starfish had been washed up and stranded on the shore. Stooping down, the monk carefully lifted a single creature and returned it to the sea. His young apprentice wondered aloud why his master bothered to do this when it made little difference to the mass of helpless creatures. As they walked along, the monk picked up another single starfish and replied, “It makes a difference to just this one.”

I have copied this version, aptly, from The Starfish Project in Cambodia.

It is of course relatively easy to donate to one of the disaster relief funds like UNICEF’s Asia-Pacific Disasters Children’s Appeal and thereby help at least one ‘starfish’ in the short term but I am also concerned for the future. Many survivors will have lost everything: what will be their longterm prospects? As ever, such disasters seem to affect the poor the most. Houses and crops destroyed. Fishing boats lost.

I am now looking for that one starfish that I can help over the longterm and given my travel and tourism background I believe it will need to be a project in that sector. That does not mean I am going to pass by all the other starfish until I find the ‘right’ one: I will help where I can which is why I want to tell you about the Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation in Vietnam.

Since 2002, the Foundation has been helping ‘street kids’ into education, training and apprenticeships. A recent focus has been on children from central Vietnam who had been trafficked to Ho Chi Minh City to work on the streets or in factories. Today Blue Dragon runs a children’s home in Hoi An, Central Vietnam, providing a safe and healthy environment for these vulnerable young people.

According to a post on the foundation’s blog the recent flash floods in Central Vietnam have caused damage to the Home; although the full extent is not yet known. The crucial part of this particular story though is that, with the devastation caused to local economies, families might be more inclined to send their children off to the garment factories. A story that could easily be re-told throughout the region. I want to help prevent that happening.

For every one person already taking action I am sure there are many more who, like me, are transfixed by the scale of the problem. If we can all find a starfish to help, together, we can make a difference.

Do you know any small charities working in the region and dealing with the aftermath of these tragedies?

Images: IFRC

The temples of Angkor were all that I had imagined and more. Angkor Wat was of course a highlight but almost every temple that we visited during our 2-day visit was special in its own way. The other two that particularly stood out for me were the Bayon Temple at Angkor Thom with its carved faces and of course the tree-strangled ruins of Ta Prom.

Angkor Wat is around 20 minutes from the town of Siem Reap and it takes little imagination to travel back into the Golden Age of Angkor.

Even though my family and I were visiting at one of the busiest times of the year (Khmer New Year, 13-15 April), I still found an inherent tranquillity to the temples. It is as if all the effort and devotion that had been put into their design and construction still imbues the structure: I am truly in awe of those responsible for their creation.

Weather-wise the best time to visit Angkor is from December to March. April is the start of the hot season and from May to September the rains can be heavy.

The weather was mixed during our stay in April. We had some heavy rain, gales on one afternoon but sunshine most of the time.

In spite of the Khmer New Year crowds, Angkor Wat did not disappoint, far from it in fact.

To avoid the hubbub at the front of the temple our guide took us through the trees at the back. On first sight it did not look anything special but the bas relief depicting the Hindu story of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk was the first indication that this was indeed a Wonder of the World.

I had seen pictures of Angkor Wat but it was not until we started walking along the many corridors that I appreciated the sheer scale of the temple. Even though the New Year crowd was growing, my experience and appreciation of Angkor Wat was in no way diminished.

Angkor Wat was occupied for longer than most, if not all, of the other temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park which might explain why, despite its age (around 900 years), it is in a very good state of repair.

I knew there were a lot of temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park which is why, for convenience and to save time, I opted for a private, organized tour for our relatively short visit. By the way, I suggest 2 days is the bare minimum amount of time you should allow.

We purchased a 3-day pass for the temples at a cost of US$40 per head. You will need a passport-size photo for the pass: we took our own along but I understand they will take one on the spot for you at no charge.

The other main highlights of our visit were:

Bayon Temple

I suppose the key reason I found the Bayon Temple so appealing was the large, enigmatic faces carved into the brickwork. I didn’t count them but apparently there are 54 towers decorated with over 200 smiling faces of Avolokitesvara, which in Sanskrit means the lord who looks in every direction.

Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm is best known as the backdrop to the movie ‘Tomb Raider’: it is truly so fantastical it is almost unreal. Large trees straddle, and in many cases, are strangling this ancient monument. I understand that the task of restoring this temple would be so huge that the authorities are currently leaving it to nature to continue its ravaging march. To an extent it must look now as it would have done to those explorers who re-discovered these abandoned temples of Angkor in the 19^th Century.

Preah Khan

For a sense of how Ta Prohm might look restored visit Preah Khan temple, built by King Jayavarman VII. Preah Khan has towered enclosures and shoulder-hugging corridors like Ta Prohm but it is in a better state of preservation and there are ongoing restoration efforts to improve it.

We also did our, almost obligatory, sunset stop at Pre Rup. I don’t know if, over the years, I have become blasé about sunsets (I hope not) but I did not find this anything special. Just a lot of people waiting around for a long time, for not very much. On the positive side, the setting (and, I imagine, the rising) sun picks out the colour of the red brickwork.

I feel certain that I shall return to Cambodia and a repeat visit to Angkor will certainly be on my list.

If you have visited the Temples of Angkor what were the highlights for you?

Images Credit: www.Hookedonasia.org Creative Commons

Black & White portrait by subcomandanta via Flickr

I am writing this piece to make a small contribution to the promotion of Cambodia as a tourist destination. Tourism is one of the country’s few foreign exchange earners and so will play a key role in alleviating the country’s economic woes.

The Phnom Penh Post reports that figures for the first half of 2009 show an overall decline in the number of foreign visitors, with South Korea down by as much as one third. Needless to say there have been job losses.

I realise that talk of poverty, prostitution and human trafficking is not what you would normally associate with tourism promotion, but I have always believed in telling it like it is. For the most part, as a tourist, you would not be aware of these problems but crucially, if you were to visit the country, you could be part of the solution, particularly if using companies that follow responsible tourism principles.

Cambodian Government Aims High

Despite the negative indicators, according to the Straits Times, the government is predicting that next year annual arrivals will increase to 3 million: that’s up from 2.15 million in 2008, a projected increase of 39% over 2 years.

This is perhaps an ambitious figure in today’s climate but, if it is a realistic target, I am all for aiming high. I read that, amidst the gloom, arrivals from Vietnam at least increased by 40% in the first half of this year (2009): it’s a start.

Cambodia Angkor Air Launched This Week

Airport sign by aZAMirui via Flickr

The government hopes that the country’s new national airline, Cambodia Angkor Air, launched this week, will add to the momentum. This is a joint venture between Cambodia (51%) and Vietnam Airlines (49%) and the first flights connect Phnom Penh (Cambodia’s capital), Siem Reap (the gateway to Cambodia’s famed Angkor temples) with Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam. A service between Siem Reap and the Cambodian beach resort of Sihanoukville will follow. The collaboration operates as a code share, which in practical terms means flight numbers are prefixed by one or both of the airlines’ 2-character designator codes (K6 and VN); and gives the fledgling airline connections to Vietnam Airlines’ international routes.

Cambodia: The Perfect Tourist Package – City, Culture And Beach

Phnom Penh rooftops by Anduze traveller via Flickr

Cambodia, via its two international gateways, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, is already well served by direct flights from regional hubs like Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore; but these new services by the national carrier both increase air capacity and give the country a degree of autonomy.

Sihanoukville beach

CC photo: John Einar Sandvand, Cambodia Tales

Once the airport at Sihanoukville has officially opened (at the time of writing I do not have a date but I understand it’ll be soon) all of this will combine to give Cambodia the perfect tourist package: city, culture and beach, all accessible by air. The existing accommodation inventory also offers a wide choice of places to stay: from guest houses right the way up, in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh at least, to 5 star luxury.

Cambodia then has the start of a sound tourist infrastructure.

The Two Jewels In Cambodia’s Tourism Crown

Angkor Wat by mtchm via Flickr

Whether or not tourist arrivals hit 3 million next year, by continuing to cater for a wider range of visitors, the industry can attract a higher spend and that is what is needed. For me quality is more important than quantity (but then I’m not running the country!) and I believe it important that all tourist developments should be responsible ones.

The Family at Ta Prohm

Finally I would just briefly mention the two jewels in the country’s tourism crown: 1) The World Heritage site of Angkor and 2) The people.

I will be writing about the temples of Angkor elsewhere but for now let me say that the temple complex, close to Siem Reap, is one of the most awesome sites I have seen in 25 years of travelling in Asia.

Smiling face by mrcharly via Flickr

The people, in my experience, are gentle and charming and for the fortitude shown over decades of war, genocide and instability, they have my respect and admiration. Since 1997 their focus has been firmly on the future and I am sure you, as a visitor, would receive a gracious, warm welcome.

I realise discretionary income is tight at the moment but if you are undecided about where to spend your next vacation let me recommend Cambodia : this pocket-size country has a lot to offer. A word of warning though: after visiting once you will want to go back, and as the country continues to develop there will be plenty to go back for!

If you know Cambodia and would like to give more reasons why someone should consider it for their vacation please comment below.

If you do not know the country and have a question about it, post a comment too: I am sure someone will be able to help

As I learn more about it I am left with mixed-feelings not the least of which is that it has become something of a marketing bandwagon. I recently read an article by Daniela Papi of PEPY in Cambodia that makes a very good point: in effect Daniela argues that good intentions can be dangerous and should be applied with caution. With Daniela’s permission I have re-published her article below.

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Giving things away can cause more harm than good (voluntourism & traveler philanthropy gone wrong)
By Daniela Papi

Someone asked what the impact of many tour companies and individuals looking to offer philanthropic opportunities in developing areas might be…. here are my thoughts and a story from my experiences in Cambodia.

Rice Field: Siem Reap, Cambodia

I think that it can be a tricky line to walk for those entering a new culture or area and looking to help. Knowing who to trust, what to do/give, where to put support, what that support should be designed like, if/how their should be community by-in/support/funding to make it happen, who will monitor it, how changes will be made, etc etc, is a lot to take on. This doesn’t mean we shouldn’t but it means there is a lot to learn, and even more to learn once we start and make mistakes. There are so many groups in Cambodia coming in and digging wells or giving away filters and sometimes those things do harm (wells leeching arsenic from bedrock, breaking and sitting unfixed as there is no local ownership, etc). Here’s a story for you:

Playing with water, Cambodia

In the rural Cambodian district where we work at PEPY, most people were drinking directly from the local pumps. We had the water tested and found high levels of bacteria so we identified what we believe to be the best and most affordable filter and decided to try to get these used in the community. We saw that there was a man in a town 10km away who had begun selling these in his shop and we were able to purchase them and have them delivered to our target area to be sold for the same price at $11.50.

In order to be able to sell the filters, we required that the teachers attend a training and learn how to teach others proper use of the filters. We invited someone from the organization where the filters are made to come explain how the work, how they are made, and how best to take care of them. The teachers were given charts with this information and were taught how to then present this information to anyone who was purchasing a filter.

Angkor On A Bike

The filter program worked well and the teachers were able to get over 150 water filters into local homes. The price for the filter is not insignificant, but the community had seen the results of having clean water as we had been using the filters in the local schools and had drastically increased attendance at school as absences due to sickness went going down. We were excited about the benefits these new filters would have on the overall community health.

Then a foreign funded group came through, looking to “help the poor people” of the area. They began selling the same filters at $3 each, far below what they had paid for them.

In one day, without knowing it, they actually greatly HARMED the potential for health increases in the area. They thought they were “doing good” by giving things away, or subsidizing them, but instead, without knowing much about the area, they:

- damaged the market potential for both our teacher’s filter sales program and the nearby shop owner

- built mistrust as the community now thought the filters really should have been much cheaper or that they should hold off on buying them as someone might come give them one

- did not do the training/education necessary to actually help people understand how/why they work – so people are not taking care of them, thereby undermining the power of the very filters they distributed

- created a situation where the richer (all relative of course) people no longer want that product. It is “cheap” – subsidized to the poor people, so it must not be good, in their minds. Those who can afford it have now been saving up for the nearly $20 filters being marketed by Korean groups which are much more high tech looking but actually do not remove bacteria from the water, but with a higher price tag, no education coming with the product, and community trust damaged, some are using their very limited budgets to buy a product which is often essentially one month’s worth of income and not effective.

In this case, “giving things away” took away the very thing they were trying to provide: a chance to have clean water.

Tourists At Angkor Wat

What does this have to do with voluntourism? The same effects can happen if voluntourism projects are designed by those coming in from the outside. I’ve done it wrong myself, damaged existing markets or systems, and have seen the results, so I’d love to help people from doing the same. Now that I have been in Cambodia 4 years, I can see the results of mistakes I have made, but some voluntourism is in and out, with limited or no monitoring or follow up. In those, and all cases, the more local know how and existing power and social structures are used, in my opinion, the more likely it is to avoid the mistakes of doing harm when intending to do good.

Unfortunately with more and more entities designing voluntourism experiences with limited local buy in – the more worried I am about the overall scheme of things.

Image credits: Rice Field-Frederic Poirot; Playing with water-mrcharly; Angkor On A Bike-latigi; Tourists At Angkor Wat-kenworker. All via flickr

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Daniela Papi is the founder of PEPY and is outspoken about her concerns for the negative impacts of the growth of the voluntourism sector due to mistakes she has made and witnessed in her work in Cambodia. She grew up in New York but has spent the last seven years in Asia working in education and tourism. She currently manages PEPY from her Cambodia office in Siem Reap.

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This reinforces my belief that I should take a restrained approach to the concept of voluntourism but what do you think? Does it have a place in the tourist industry? Would you participate in an activity in this sector?

The Waterfront, Phnom Penh

First Impressions

You start to get a flavour of Cambodia’s place in the world as soon as you arrive. Upon landing into the tiny airport, you are greeted with a gorgeous terminal – a cute present from a French-Malaysian joint venture. But inside you’ll have to go through a number of stations to have your visa processed – an outfit that looks quite comical, as a line of officers sits behind a counter, each doing a particular task in the process.

Once you’ve left the secure area of the building, you’ll immediately be faced with numerous offers for taxis, lodging, gifts and souvenirs – a sight not uncommon in many poor countries and another good reason to have transport pre-booked. Travel in the streets of Phnom Penh is not for the faint hearted; a kluge of tuk-tuks, motorcycles, and vintage cars competes for attention and the dotted line in the middle of the road is really only a visual reference, not a “keep to your side of the road” marker that you might be used to.

The cacophony of horns dies down finally when you arrive at your hotel which will no doubt be of world-class quality and standard, regardless of your budget. Tourism is an important mix to the Cambodian economy, so service is always swift and efficient, friendly. Our hotel room had definitely a bit of French flair – perhaps a leftover from all the years of French influence.

The Waterfront

Alongside the river in central Phnom Penh is where all the action is. From one end to the other there are posh restaurants, fan-cooled outdoor bars, and the occasional souvenir shop or stall. Expats, both local and tourist, tend to flock to the Foreign Correspondent’s Club for good drinks, tasty food, and wonderful views from the top storey of the building. But don’t just hang out here – any of the many restaurants have amazing food – Khmer curry, pad Thai, or even the odd French dish.

But heading just a block away into town, it’s a very different story. There are few streetlights, making the pathways somewhat dark as dusk approaches. It feels extremely dangerous yet welcoming and safe both at the same time – we had no problems, but you can’t help but feel a bit spooked. Children run about naked, either because of a lack of clean clothes or because of the heat. Flies cover the meat sitting outdoors at the markets revolts a Westerner but the locals don’t skip a beat.

We looked for a secret nightclub, one supposedly with the best music and drinks in town. Our guide warned us that the club is frequented by family members of the Khmer Rouge who like to cause trouble, unprovoked, especially with foreigners. Our curiosity got the best of us, but alas we couldn’t find it. Clear addresses are not a feature in Phnom Penh.

The Markets

A tour in any of the markets in Phnom Penh (particularly the Central Market and the Russian Market) will make even the shiniest mall in Hong Kong or America seem lacklustre. The stalls and stands spiral out for miles and miles, and even after a couple of hours exploring, it is impossible to see everything. But you might not want to – the incessant calls of “lady” and “sir” to any Westerner who walks by will leave you flummoxed as whether to remark on their entrepreneurial spirit or just be annoyed.

A Market Scene, Phnom Penh

The wares on sale will astound you, but wait until you see the prices – naturally you have to ask as they aren’t marked. A counterfeit t-shirt will run you 1 pound, but oddly enough you’ll be expected to bargain and to do your job properly would get it down to 50 or 60 pence, at least. Your instinct will be to just pay as it is so cheap, but don’t overlook this local custom. Many of the shopkeepers love a bit of cheeky banter, and what better way than to haggle over prices? Even if you let them “win” they’ll still be pleased you tried, and you’ll have the opportunity to get to know a local more.

If You Go

If you go to Cambodia, don’t head straight to Siem Reap – skip Phnom Penh and you’ll regret it. There are directly flights currently from Bangkok, Saigon, Hanoi, and Hong Kong. You can also get the country’s only internal direct flight from Phhom Penh to Siem Reap and save travel time if necessary.

Come to Cambodia with an open mind, get to know the locals, and listen to their story. It’s a tale you’ll never forget.

Words & images by Andy Hayes

Andy is a professional travel writer and photographer based in Edinburgh, Scotland. For more inspirational travel stories and tales from around the world, visit his site Sharing Experiences.

“You would have to be very strong, courageous or foolhardy. Wine grapes are not a profitable Cambodian crop, and they are sure to fail,’ were the types of things people whispered,” said Leng Chan Thol, one half of the daring duo.

Fortunately, the young entrepreneurs didn’t let the idle chatter discourage them from pioneering Cambodia’s first valiant attempt at viticulture. Read More

Preah Vihear Temple (From Wikipedia)

The face-off between Thailand and Cambodia over the disputed ‘ownership’ of Preah Vihear continued over the weekend and at least 2 soldiers were reportedly killed.

The Preah Vihear temple is a UNESCO World Heritage site from the Khmer period. Its relative inaccessibility means that at the moment it is not on the main tourist trail as this snippet from Wikipedia explains:

“From Cambodia, the temple can be approached via Tbeng Meanchey in Preah Vihear province or from Siem Reap in Siem Reap province via Anlong Veng. Although the highway is bitumen when it leaves Siem Reap, both roads are (occasionally) graded gravel once they begin to approach the Dangrek escarpment.

From Thailand it can be approached from the Kantharalak district (amphoe) of the Sisaket province. Cambodia allows day-trip access to the temple on a visa-free basis from Thailand. Cambodia imposes an entrance fee of US$5 or 200 baht for foreigners (as of 2006, reduced to 50 baht for nationals of Thailand), plus a fee of 5 baht for processing a copy of the passport. In addition, Thailand imposes an access fee of 400 baht for entering the National Park.”

Naturally no one is going to visit the temple as this dispute continues but no doubt each side see it as a ‘cash cow’ for the future.

Phimai Temple (From Wikipedia)

In the meantime visitors to Cambodia can of course visit the heart of the Khmer Empire at the Angkor Archaeological Park. Visitors to Thailand interested in seeing Khmer architecture can visit Phimai Historical Park in Thailand’s north-east.

I see from the report in the Straits Times that representatives from the governments of Thailand and Cambodia will be meeting in Phnom Penh on Monday and Tuesday which will hopefully put an end to this loss of life which, to me, makes no sense.

Be prepared, it is not a feel-good, glossy travelogue: it touches on the horrors of the Khmer Rouge years and reveals today’s harsh reality of Pol Pot’s legacy.

I am no expert but I reckon Josh has produced an excellent video here. Although he is obviously motivated by his Christian beliefs, his message hits at a very basic, human, spiritual level.

The video ends on a positive note: one of hope. And I totally agree with the conclusion that education is the key

Travel and tourism is a double-edged sword. However, on the positive side, I believe that through the industry’s contribution to the economy, it is playing its part in supporting the country’s efforts to make up for the years of lost education.

There is of course plenty more that needs to be done and I am keen to find out as much as I can about the various agencies that are working in Cambodia providing educational support. Can you help?

Cambodia Documentary Rough Draft from Whisper Productions on Vimeo.

Ta Prohm

Ever since (sometime in the 1970’s) I read about Cambodia’s unwilling part in the Vietnam War I have had a special regard for the country. It took me a long time but finally, last year, I visited Cambodia.

My visit to Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor was all I expected and more. The sheer scale of this World Heritage site was a surprise and the architecture a delight. The preservation work has been a true labour of love and even those sites where work is nigh impossible there is a very special magic. Take Ta Prohm for example where Nature has re-established her dominance. In terms of drama and romance it is probably my favourite.

For me, however, the true heart of any country is the people without whose ancestors these architectural wonders would not exist. And surely the spirit of the Cambodians is something to be marvelled at. Of all the peoples in the world who have been deposited upon from a very great height these have to be among the most stalwart.

Their mettle was most severely tested during the unthinkable and unspeakable horrors of the Khmer Rouge and, some 30 years on, as the trials of five senior Khmer Rouge figures get under way in Phnom Penh this week, the International Herald Tribune has a very interesting article on a former Tuol Sleng prison guard, Him Huy.

Him Huy argues, like others in history, that it was a case of kill or be killed.

I am sure that you, like me, want to believe that in the same situation when faced with a choice you would have made the right decision, the morally correct one. Hopefully we will never be in a position where we are put to the test.

As you travel around Cambodia today you could be passing dozens or even hundreds of men like Him Huy but you would never know; because just like him, the people now are gentle and friendly. No matter what their personal history people are getting on with life and making the best of what they have, and most don’t have much. Victims of land mines play their musical instruments at the side of the lanes leading to a temple while others create works of art from wood and stone. Children sell postcards and trinkets at the temple gates.

These children could be in education, which the government provides free for 9 years, but the chances are they are not. It is true that these children have a choice, of sorts, whereas those of school age during Pol Pot’s time (1975 – 1979) had no such option. Schools were closed and turned-over to other uses, school materials were destroyed and teachers were either killed or they fled. However, education doesn’t pay today’s bills.

I see though a brighter future in much of the good work going on in the country both through the country’s government and outside agencies like World Education. It is my hope that through such efforts more children will enjoy their human rights.

I have to say that few countries have touched me the way that Cambodia has and I hope that in my own small way I can contribute to the country’s growth by proselytizing its virtues as a tourist destination.

In the meantime, please don’t leave it as long as I did to visit.