On the Streets of Phnom Penh
Cambodia’s capital city of Phnom Penh is one of those places that’s difficult to describe in words (or pictures, for the record). As by far the largest city in the country, it provides a window of reflection into daily life in Cambodia. And what an intriguing life it is.
The Waterfront, Phnom Penh
First Impressions
You start to get a flavour of Cambodia’s place in the world as soon as you arrive. Upon landing into the tiny airport, you are greeted with a gorgeous terminal – a cute present from a French-Malaysian joint venture. But inside you’ll have to go through a number of stations to have your visa processed – an outfit that looks quite comical, as a line of officers sits behind a counter, each doing a particular task in the process.
Once you’ve left the secure area of the building, you’ll immediately be faced with numerous offers for taxis, lodging, gifts and souvenirs – a sight not uncommon in many poor countries and another good reason to have transport pre-booked. Travel in the streets of Phnom Penh is not for the faint hearted; a kluge of tuk-tuks, motorcycles, and vintage cars competes for attention and the dotted line in the middle of the road is really only a visual reference, not a “keep to your side of the road” marker that you might be used to.
The cacophony of horns dies down finally when you arrive at your hotel which will no doubt be of world-class quality and standard, regardless of your budget. Tourism is an important mix to the Cambodian economy, so service is always swift and efficient, friendly. Our hotel room had definitely a bit of French flair – perhaps a leftover from all the years of French influence.
The Waterfront
Alongside the river in central Phnom Penh is where all the action is. From one end to the other there are posh restaurants, fan-cooled outdoor bars, and the occasional souvenir shop or stall. Expats, both local and tourist, tend to flock to the Foreign Correspondent’s Club for good drinks, tasty food, and wonderful views from the top storey of the building. But don’t just hang out here – any of the many restaurants have amazing food – Khmer curry, pad Thai, or even the odd French dish.
But heading just a block away into town, it’s a very different story. There are few streetlights, making the pathways somewhat dark as dusk approaches. It feels extremely dangerous yet welcoming and safe both at the same time – we had no problems, but you can’t help but feel a bit spooked. Children run about naked, either because of a lack of clean clothes or because of the heat. Flies cover the meat sitting outdoors at the markets revolts a Westerner but the locals don’t skip a beat.
We looked for a secret nightclub, one supposedly with the best music and drinks in town. Our guide warned us that the club is frequented by family members of the Khmer Rouge who like to cause trouble, unprovoked, especially with foreigners. Our curiosity got the best of us, but alas we couldn’t find it. Clear addresses are not a feature in Phnom Penh.
The Markets
A tour in any of the markets in Phnom Penh (particularly the Central Market and the Russian Market) will make even the shiniest mall in Hong Kong or America seem lacklustre. The stalls and stands spiral out for miles and miles, and even after a couple of hours exploring, it is impossible to see everything. But you might not want to – the incessant calls of “lady” and “sir” to any Westerner who walks by will leave you flummoxed as whether to remark on their entrepreneurial spirit or just be annoyed.
A Market Scene, Phnom Penh
The wares on sale will astound you, but wait until you see the prices – naturally you have to ask as they aren’t marked. A counterfeit t-shirt will run you 1 pound, but oddly enough you’ll be expected to bargain and to do your job properly would get it down to 50 or 60 pence, at least. Your instinct will be to just pay as it is so cheap, but don’t overlook this local custom. Many of the shopkeepers love a bit of cheeky banter, and what better way than to haggle over prices? Even if you let them “win” they’ll still be pleased you tried, and you’ll have the opportunity to get to know a local more.
If You Go
If you go to Cambodia, don’t head straight to Siem Reap – skip Phnom Penh and you’ll regret it. There are directly flights currently from Bangkok, Saigon, Hanoi, and Hong Kong. You can also get the country’s only internal direct flight from Phhom Penh to Siem Reap and save travel time if necessary.
Come to Cambodia with an open mind, get to know the locals, and listen to their story. It’s a tale you’ll never forget.
Words & images by Andy Hayes
Andy is a professional travel writer and photographer based in Edinburgh, Scotland. For more inspirational travel stories and tales from around the world, visit his site Sharing Experiences.
